Kokoda to Owers Corner Trek Report

Day 01:  Melbourne to Port Moresby - With a 3am start to the day I arrived in Port Moresby after an easy flight from Melbourne via Brisbane.  Disembarking from the plane I was hit by a wall of heat and humidity.  Getting through customs and immigration was hassle free and we were then met by the No Roads guides Daniel and Javid.  After all the intros and once all were assembled, it was off to the Hideaway Hotel which was a short drive from the airport. We were given our rooms, I was sharing with a guy from Melbourne, Tim and we got along great. That night we had a briefing by the pool and a “get to know you” chat with a few beers and then into the bus for dinner. A couple in the group, Stephen and Catharine from Kew had told me they had read the website and Catharine told me she was blown away with my training regime.  It was nice of her to say but I felt like once again I had a lot to live up too, and I was feeling the pressure to get through this and again I was doubting my own ability.

Dinner was great but after a couple of beers and the long haul of a 19 hour day I was exhausted and glad to get to bed.

The group; Daniel, Catharine, Stephen, Chris, Adam, Aldo, Tim, Michelle, Sharon, Peggy, Gavin, Chris (CJ), Norm, Gordon, David and myself.

Day 02:  Port Moresby to Kokoda to Deniki - Up at 6.30am packed my backpack.  The total weight before water was approximately 11kg’s; with water my backpack weighed approx 15kg’s.  We all had to have our backpacks at reception by 7am, from then they would be taken to the airport and flown to Kokoda before us.  Once we had breakfast, which consisted of a choice of cakes, donuts, toast (if you had time to wait for the toaster) cereals and curry looking rice dish (I love curry but not for breakfast).  After breakfast we sat by the pool until Jack the No Roads PNG Ops Manager called us to say our plane was ready. Daniel asked us for our weights so they could work out what could be carried on the plane, lucky I lost 12kg's during my training!  We sat talking, sweating and drinking water until Daniel came out saying he had good and bad news, the bad news was our plane was ready; the good news was our plane was ready lol.  So, it was into the bus and off to the airport, which once there our names were rolled called and into the De Havilland Twin Otter 300.  The plane was small, seating the two crew and 20 passengers.  Once we were all in and seatbelts on it was up and away.  The take off was smooth and I could see the shacks on the outskirts of Port Moresby, it was not long before we could see the jungles of the Kokoda track and the villages dotted throughout the mountains. The plane was like a sauna inside, so I was glad it was only a 25 minute flight.

Our flight and landing into Kokoda was great, we were greeted by some of the villagers and our porters and guides.  Our packs were sitting there waiting for us to collect them.  Those who had a personal porter were introduced to them and then after a few happy snaps it was off hiking to the village which was 20 minutes away.  We then dropped our packs and headed with our water bottles and camel backs to the hospital where we could fill up from their rainwater tank, water purification tablets were a must here. 

We then headed for the Kokoda War Memorial and Museum.  The grounds were very green and the museum was small yet very good.  The most impressive item in the museum was the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel Memorial, a bronze statue that depicted a Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel arms around a digger, carrying him to safety. After signing the memorial book, we then headed back to where our packs were and the porters who had lunch ready for us.

Then it was “packs on” and we were off on the Kokoda Track.  One foot in front of the other in the intense heat and humidity, to me it felt like around 38c and well over 85% humidity. I am not sure how long it was into the hike when I started to feel the heat, but it was really starting to get to me, and I was falling behind the rest of the group.  At one stage I stopped to have a rest and drink for a minute, I only took another 10 steps after that and felt dizzy and fell to my knees.  The porters came over to me and helped get me into the shade, telling me to take my time.  I could not believe I was feeling this bad so early in the hike; I was very angry and disappointed and was not sure how I would cope with the rest of the hike? With all that training I thought I had done enough and I again started to wonder if I had or was I just not up to this, was this the end? I poured water over my head and tried to regain my strength, and after about 8 minutes on the ground I got up and headed off again, with a porter by my side.  I finally caught up with the group at our rest stop at a village called Hoi, it was a nice place with a creek running through it.  There were cans of Coke and Fanta in a pot of cold water available for 5 kina.  Everyone looked hot and tired, however there was no doubt by the concerned looks everyone gave me that the heat had hit me the worst.  The call of “packs on” was not good to my ears but up I got with the rest of them and we headed up the Deniki.  As the incline increased it was apparent to the porters that I was really starting to struggle so they suggested they carry some of my items.  I was reluctant to do this but they insisted, so my sleeping bag, sleeping matt and sandals were handed over.  I am not sure when it was, but I asked the porter by my side his name, he replied “Wally” and that was the start of our friendship.  Unbeknown to me, Wally had sent a message up to the main group to send down a porter once they reached Deniki to come back down and carry my pack.  I again protested but again they insisted.  I arrived into camp feeling very distressed and tired, everyone asked if I was ok, I just sat down and said I was ok. 

After drinking some water and resting we were shown our tents.   I headed down the track with some of the others to some running water where we could shower.  The water was freezing, but it was good!  Our meal was curried sausages which was great.  I chatted to another No Roads guide Phil, a Police Officer from the western suburbs of Melbourne; a nice guy and he gave me some encouragement and tips on how to get myself right for to the next day. It was not long after that when I decided to hit the sack.

Day 03: Deniki to Alola  - Up at 5am, packed our backpacks and had them out of the tents so the porters could pack the tents up.  Wally and Simon the two porters that helped yesterday came over and offered to carry some of stuff again, which I agreed.  Breakfast was the best porridge I have ever had, a cup of tea and off course my malaria tablet.  Sunrise was just glorious.

Daniel called us altogether, including the porters.  After lining us all up we then walked down the line of porters and individually introduced ourselves to them.  After that, Daniel then explained that every morning before headed off, we participated in a chant to get us motivated and pumped up for the hike ahead. We filled our water bottles on the way out and headed off towards Isurava.  The hike took us through fields of Choco, which is a edible plant, one we will try one night. On arriving to Isurava, my feet were aching and I was very tired.  After resting and taking off the boots, I headed down to the memorial area, which was just beautiful.  There are 4 granite stones there, each has a word a etched in them "Courage" Endurance" Mateship" Sacrifice" good words to live ones life by.  Gordon was there and asked me if I would like my photo taken, I chose to stand next to "Mateship" as I believe that mateship is the only good thing to come out of any war, Gordon agreed.  I then headed down to the memorial for Bruce Kingsbury, a 24 year old that gave his life for our country, his courage under fire was and still is inspirational. The picture with my reflection in the stone was taken deliberately as I wanted to remind myself that getting through this trek was going to take endurance.

We had lunch and filled our water and then after resting it off to Alola for the night. Today was a good day for me, I was starting to feel great, Wally and I were becoming good friends and I just felt "it was good" For dinner we had pizzas!

Day 04: Alola to Templeton’s Crossing No. 1 - Once again it was up at 5am, pack, eat breakfast, do our chant and we were off.  Today we visited the Japanese strong hold that looked over Eora Creek; there we were able to handle and look at ammunition boxes and ammunition that had been left behind.  The Japanese had had a mountain gun, which was supported by two heavy mortars and machine guns, they dominated Eora Creek and the ridge leading down to it. After this we headed down to Eora Creek for a break, which was good for me as my camera batteries needed replacing. Off again, now headed for Templeton’s Crossing No. 2, for lunch, I had now really found my jungle legs and was feeling great!  We arrived at the lunch spot, the boots came off we all headed for the river to soak our weary legs in the ice cold water, and it was icy, but great for the muscles.  The porters were singing and laughing and obviously having a great time.

After lunch, it was off to Templeton’s Crossing No. 1 for the night, which is at the base of Mt Bellamy.  We arrived in time to be able to have a swim in Eora Creek which ran through there, the water was great and once again felt great on the weary body.  Dinner tonight was pasta, and “it was good”

Day 05:  Templeton’s Crossing No. 1 to Kagi – Today we headed for the summit of Mt Bellamy, which is the highest point of the Kokoda Track.  The weather was cool and the mist hugged the ridges and mountains for some time.  Getting to the top was hard work, no real surprise there I guess. After the summit we walked through the moss forest, which is where the No Roads hikers found what they thought were the remains of a WWII pilot hanging above in the forest canopy.  Once there, you can understand how they made the mistake, and also how it was easy not notice it unless you were really looking.

From there on it was down to Nadoori, where we had lunch.  Here we were all privilege to meet the last surviving Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel, his name Ovuru Ndiki, we had heard that he loved tattoos and everyone encouraged me to take off my shirt and reveal my upper arm sleave.  As I approached him, his eyes lit up and a huge smile came across his face, he waved me over and shook my hand, then he revealed his tattoo on his upper arm.  His grandson then told a little about his life during the war, and after which a few of us had the chance to shake his hand and thank him for being there for our diggers.

We then headed off to Kagi, the porters were keen to get there as most of them come from this village, or have friends there. As we passed through the school area, I meet one of the senior guys and handed him a couple of packets of coloured pencils I had bought for them.

Once we were at our camp site, I bought myself a hot shower 10kina and worth every kina! Then we played some cricket with the kids.  A few of us walked up to the main village as our porters were playing in a game of rugby league against another groups porters.  Bare feet, hard bare ground and no lines, but they did have a referee! Unfortunately our guys lost 1 nil, but they put up a great game.  We headed back to camp for dinner which was sweet potato and choco curry, very nice and "it was good"

During our regular nightly briefing, Daniel had asked me to read the poem written in memory of the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels, although I did not have my reading glasses on, I hope I did it justice.

Day 06: Kagi to Menari – Today we hiked to Brigade Hill, it was hot and a long haul and very hard on the legs.  We hiked through Efogi 2 and Efogi 1, we stopped at Efogi 2 for a break, and the locals had fresh fruit for sale, cold drinks and donuts! 

Then we hiked through Efogi 1, and at the airfield was an Australian Air Force plane that had hit a tree while landing. The wing was damaged and they have to take it apart and lift it out back to Port Moresby piece by piece. It was still in tact when we hiked passed; however the pics below were sent to me when they were dismantling it.

The hike up from Efogi 1 was hard, it was hot and we had no canopy to protect us from the sun, it was a hard slog up to Brigade Hill, and my hiking partner Peggy and I took our time.  There we had lunch and after eating, Daniel and a few of us hiked up to the the memorial, where Daniel talked about what happened here. Australia lost 62 of its sons here. We sat, stood, knelt as Daniel told their story, tears were shed by a few of us and we were all silent in respect of the fallen. "Lest We Forget"

After some pictures and water refills we were off, the mood was solemn and I decided to try and cheer us all up by starting a sing along “there she was just walking down the street, singing do wa diddy diddy dum diddy doo” this started Gavin singing and it was not long before a few others joined in.  We spent the next 40 minutes or so hiking down from Brigade Hill singing songs, we finished with a great version of Queens Bohemian Rhapsody, the porters laughed! Catherine thought something other that chicken stock was in the noodles I had for lunch.

We arrived at a beautiful river with a great swimming hole, the river tumbled down a small water fall, so it was boots off and into the cool water.  After a short time a storm moved in and well we thought it best to get out and move onto our camp for the night.  The hike up from the river was the scariest so far, it was very steep, muddy and very slippery and with the rain falling it made it worse, one mistake and it was down. We arrived at Menari and I was beat, my boots were soaked right through from the rain and mud and my feet were aching.  As the afternoon wore on my mental state got worse, I was missing Julie and well things had happened that upset me.  I tried to bring myself out of this mood by kicking the footy with the guys,  but to no prevail. I also tried to have a shower but there was no water.  I went to bed at 5.30pm right after dinner. I hoped that tomorrow I would be ok.

Day 07: Menari to Naoro Village – I awoke in a more positive mood, today was going to be a good foe me. Today was a relatively easy day hiking, once we got up the steep climb we descended down to Brown River.  Here we were able to swim in the cool water and “it was good”

It was decided that as we were hiking so well, we would not stop for lunch and have lunch at our night camp Naoro Village. It was good to get into camp so early, and to top it off one of the villagers bought down a pot of cold water with beer in it!  Gavin was kind enough to shout us all a beer and it went down well, thanks Gavin!

Lunch was had, showers for some and relaxing by all. After we had eaten dinner the clouds rolled in and the heavens opened up.  The porters tried to dig trenches around our tents to stop water getting under them.

The rain stopped not long after I went to bed and we woke to another beautiful morning.

Day 08 Naoro to Wa-ule Creek – Today we hike the Maguli Range, and after a long steep descent we will make 14 crossings of the same creek.  The hike down was slippery and I slipped over 3 times, the last time I was lucky not to cause some damage to me knee. I was not the only one slipping, everyone including most of the porters slipped at some stage.  The Ofi Creek crossings were great, the gorge we were in was just beautiful, and it was cool. We arrived at camp and I must say it was one of the most beautiful we had stayed in.  After putting my gear into my tent it was down to the creek for another swim.  Some of the guys were jumping in off a log that had fallen across it, I was happy just sitting in the cool water.

Dinner tonight was pasta with onion and pesto sauce, as well as wild pig.  One of the locals had killed a pig and we all chipped in and bought half of it, the porters cooked it up.  It was ok, the fact that it had been killed only 3 hours earlier, was probably why it was a little tough, but it was not too bad.

Tonight I stayed up till about 8pm, Wally had borrowed my headlamp so he could finish the walking stick he had offered to calve for me, so I waited until he had finished.

Day 09: Wa–ule Creek to Owers Corner – Today was out last day on the track, it was decided that we would get up at 4.30am and make a good early start, as the rain had been coming into Owers Corners every afternoon and it was would make the road impassable. This would mean we would have hike out from Owers Corner to McDonalds Corner, kilometres we really did not want to walk. So it was up at 4.30am, pack, breakfast, a quick reminder from Daniel about what Javid has told last night, the last day is a day where injuries will happen, some get complacent. We then did the chant for the last time and we were off to hike up the Imita Ridge.  It was a hard trek up to the top and once again I was in the rear of the pack, the good thing with our group is that everyone encourages each other and today was no exception.  The top of the Imita Ridge was the closest the Japanese got to Port Moresby, and there is a plaque there to commemorate our digger’s brave efforts to turn the Japanese back north.

After a rest at the top of Imita Ridge, we were again reminded of the risk of injury and that the descent down where once was the Golden Stairs was very muddy and slippery.  They were not wrong, this was the muddiest part of the track we had been on and one did have to take it carefully.  Once down the bottom we walked through come creeks, and I mean through them. It was our last day; our boots were covered in mud, so it was a good chance to wash off some of it.

We finally made to the Goldie River, a 20 meter wide fast flowing river that has no bridge or logs to cross, the only to the other side is through it.  The water was about waste height on me, so it was uneventful. I got to the other side and I as attacked by butterflies! Not sure exactly what it was, water, sweat or both but they landing on my shoulders, arms and on top of my head, they were beautiful. Wally saw me and told me that this means not only good luck but that it also meant I was good man, which was very nice of him to say.

Which that reminds me, Wally earlier had used his mobile phone at the top of the Maguli Range to call his parents, most of the porters do this to inform their family that they will be home soon. Wally had told his parents about me, how he had made a new friend, I was touched that he would tell them, and we had become friends.

Well now we had about 90 minutes of hiking left, and the promise of a cold beer and good feed at Owers Corner was all the incentive I needed to move on.  Wally caught up with after the river crossing; he said he wanted to walk to the top with me, his new friend.

The last 30 minutes up a steep hill to Owers was hard, it was hot but no sun thankfully, however I had run out of water so I was starting to get fatigued.

Wally tapped my shoulder and said “Mark, we are here” I looked up and there in front of me was the arches of Owers Corner.  I punched the air and tears welled in my eyes.  As we reached the top, I put my arm around Wally and we walked thought the arch together arm in arm, like we both had promised each other.  Wally shook my hand, and the tears started to flow with ease.  Everyone was congratulating each other, shaking hands and hugging, I tried to hold back the tears long enough to get around to them all, then I just fell in a heap.  The last 8 months had come to a close, the pressure of the fundraising, carrying my own pack, my own demons and doubt in my ability had finally been lifted.

I had done it, the Kokoda Track! 

The promised beer and food was there and we after taking the boots off for the last time, we hooked into it!

After eating and drinking we headed to Bomana Cemetery, the drive as just as exciting s the hike with slippery roads.  Bomana Cemetery was beautiful yet sad, the see so many unknown soldiers was upsetting.  The cemetery was well looked after and congratulations to those who take care of it. Then back to the Hideaway, via the airport for some cash. Tonight we celebrate with the porters and each other.

Dinner was great and after we were all handed our certificates and we had given our porters gifts and tips, they sang us some final songs.  Tears again fell and after a final farewell they were gone, although Wally did come back for another goodbye.

Summary:   This trip was the best thing I have ever done, it was also the hardest both physically and mentally, and I proved to myself that I can achieve anything, if I have the endurance and will power. I learnt things on the Kokoda that have opened my eyes.  I learnt to be patient, as the No Roads info tells you, be prepared for anything, be patient with your fellow trekkers and porters, and remember you may never be there again, so take your time and take it all in.

I was diagnosed with depression 4 years ago, and whether I stay on my medication or not, I know that my life will always have its obstacles, however I know even more now there will always be a top of those steep climbs and I am not alone in climbing them.

In three words - "it was good"

What was good:

No Roads, their preparation, logistics, food, guides, porters and itinerary were first class. I would highly recommend them, especially after comparing other trekking groups on the track.

The food, absolutely fantastic!

The Porters, they were very happy and very helpful, great bunch of people and No Roads obviously look after them well.

Daniel Green our Australian guide, he did a great job, this was his first trip as a guide, congratulations Daniel and thank you very much.

The group of trekkers; a great bunch of people, encouraging, funny and just great to hike with. We all got along so well and have made life long friendships, thank you all.

Backpack – 65 litre backpack was big enough and did the job.

Boots,  Vasque Breeze, - I purchased my boots back in April, they never once caused me grief, not one blister!

Clothes – would leave behind bathers (swam in clothes to wash them) jacket not required, a long sleeve t-shirt would be ok for the cooler areas.  4 pair of socks was the right quantity for me. Teva sandals were too heavy, cheap pair of things would be ok. I took 2 pairs of shorts and one pair of zip off long pants, one pair of shorts and the zip offs would be enough.

Water containers – 2 litre camel back was great, and two 600 ml bottles for Gatorade, perfect.

All in all most things I took I used, a light sleeping bag would do.

One item I would highly recommend is Paw Paw Ointment, helped reduced the chance of blisters and chaffing.

On the Monday, myself and two mates headed for Loloata Island for 4 days of R&R, and again "it was good"

Well this will be my blog until I return from PNG.  It has been an amazing journey over the last 8 months of training, I have met some great people through the gym I go and the also No Roads, and I am sure those in my group will add to that list.  I started training in January this year, I was 99kg’s and my fitness was below average, now I am 88kg’s and my fitness is well above average, so on a personal level this has been a great positive step for me.  Also, I have used this trip to raise money for a friend’s family who passed away in January this year, Frank.  I have been overwhelmed with the generous donations that individuals and companies have shown. We have raised over $4000.00 and it is still climbing, thanks to you all! We will hold a presentation function in October to no only present the total cheque to Angela, but also to allow those who have donated a chance to meet her.

The Kokoda track is 96km’s (60 miles) long approximately, and it winds through one of the most rugged mountainous terrains in the world. It was the scene for the most terrifying and deadly battles of WWII over 60 years ago.  Australia lost 600 men, Japan lost over 3000 just on the Kokoda Track, the 39^th battalion was made of untrained young Aussies that have been drafted into the Militia, these young men fought a army 4 times the size of their troops and with sheer guts, courage and stubbornness stopped the Japanese getting to Port Moresby and then onto Australia.

click on the map for the full view

Tomorrow morning I fly out to PNG, this is my first visit to a third world country and on Sunday I set foot onto this track to get some small idea if what our diggers had to endure during these battles. I will be carrying 14.5kg’s (31.97lb’s) in my backpack, this includes water. The trek will take 8 nights 9 days, we will visit some memorials along the way that are significant to Australia, I am also looking forward to meeting the natives at the villages we stay at.  I am taking 2 boxes of coloured pencils for the kids of the Kagi Village School, most of us are taking something for them.

Bye for now

I started my training 8 months ago, my fitness was average and my weight was 100kg's. One of my goals was to get my weight down to 88kg's before I left for PNG, well I have achieved that goal, 88kg's on the dot!  Today I will hike the 1000 Steps (Melbourne’s Kokoda Memorial Track) for the first time since they re-opened it last week after being closed for maintenance for 5 months, and for the last time before I leave.  My back pack will be 14kg's (with water), which is what I will carry on the Kokoda Track.  Then tonight we have a few friends coming over for a farewell drink, as well as to celebrate Julie's birthday. This week NoRoads made the headlines with one of their groups finding what appears to be the remains of a WWII pilot hanging from a tree in the jungle canopy. I have just completed reading the book The Bone Man of Kokoda, about a Japanese soldier who returned to PNG in the 1980's to find the remains of all of his fallen comrades, to whom he promised he we would return for them and take them home..  He found many bones, and there would be many more out there in the jungles of Kokoda and the north coast of PNG that will never be found.  I am still in awe about what our diggers went through to keep our nation safe, as well as the troops of Japan.

you can just make the legs in the middle of the pic

"They shall grow not old, as we that are left grow old;
Age shall not weary them, nor the years condemn.
At the going down of the sun and in the morning
We will remember them."

LEST WE FORGET

7 days to go!

Had a great day today, spent 2 hours hiking today with 13kg's (28.66lbs) in my backpack, which is what I expect to be carrying on the Kokoda. I ended up hiking 9.5kms (5.903 miles) and I am feeling pretty good at the moment, I intend to following it up tomorrow with a 12km (7.456 miles) hike at the same place with the same weight, this will give a good indication on how well my endurance fitness is, not that I can do much about it now as I only have 13 days before I leave  

Hope you are having a great weekend, drop to HappyWandering and wish her daughter a happy 13th birthday if you get time.

Well it is Friday night here, I am pumped!! Just spent time at the gym, 1 hour on the StairMaster, climbed 232 floors and guess how I feel now? Great, could do it again!! We went to a No Roads Kokoda info night the other night and one of the guides told us if you can do 1 hour on the StairMaster at level 12 you will do Kokoda no worries, my level was between 5 and 10 over the hour.  The night was great as we got to meet 4 other members of our group, and so far I am not the oldest

Have a long weekend this weekend, took Monday off to get in one more long hike before I leave, they say you should slow down with training in the week leading up to the hike, so next week I hit it hard and then slow down.

have a great weekend!

****UPDATE****

the fundraising has reached $4000.00